Question for Yamaha FC7 users


#1

I have this expression pedal from a trade many years ago when I owned an M1 for which it worked ok. I just cobbled together some TRS Y cables to reverse it’s polarity for use with my Axiom 61. I adjusted its little bracket underneath for “sitting” position.

Unless I keep my foot “floored” it goes back to 100 (cc11 value). The manual doesn’t really explain the adjustment for the spring but it looks like you can probably set where it backs off to when you let off the pedal.

Second question - does anyone use this pedal for VB3?

I like the feel of it a lot but not sure I like the spring feature.

Thanks,

EDIT - It looks like I should “spring” for a Midi Expression Quattro as recommended by Neil Durant


#2

Sounds like an interesting device that will solve a lot of problems. Personally, I ditched individual pedals a long time ago, and went for a Roland FC300. Not the cheapest, but built like a tank, and after ten years it still looks and works like new. Yer gets what yer pays for :slight_smile:

And I can program it exactly as I want for each song.


#3

This is the manual page that tries to explain the spring adjustment. And this is the screw that adjusts the spring tension. Setting it to 0° means that there is no “backing off” anymore - that’s the way I use it.

And yes: I use it with VB3 - works well for me. I actually use different controller curves with it: when I use expression to “liven up” my organ playing, I use a curve that gives me a compressed upper range (so I can move my foot with the rhythm without being all over the place volume-wise; when I want to fade my organ smoothly, I use a more linear CC curve.

Cheers,

Torsten


#4

Hi Torsten,

You always have fantastic answers! I read that portion of the manual but didn’t suss out that 0(degree) would result the pedal remaining down all the way.

I didn’t like how heavy the Y cables were (felt like if I kept using them I would need to provide strain relief) so I did as you mentioned in another post and created a short female to male TRS with the T/R wires reversed.

Thanks,

Doug


#5

Hi Torsten,

Could you please post a screen shot of your velocity curve you’re using for VB3 with the FC7?

Thanks


#6

I really like how this pedal works with VB3. Turning the screw to 0 took most of the pressure out of the pedal when pressing from horizontal to forward 10 degrees more. It still returns to 100 but the amount of pressure needed to move to 127 is easy to maintain.


#7

Hmm, something must still be wrong with your pedal. When set up in “sitting” position, it should be at 127 when the pedal is horizontal. Please check that you put the pedal into the “sitting” position correctly. There are two things to make sure of:

  • the “lip” of the pedal (1) needs to go inside the second slot (2) on the bottom (for “standing” it needs to be in the first one (4))

  • The “block” end of the pedal (5) needs to sit on top of the frame in the bottom (3) part - for “standing” it sits inside the frame.

This is what things should look like from the side in sitting mode:


The pedal block sits on top of the frame, the bracket is anchored inside it

When things are in standing mode, the block sits inside the frame, with the bracket clamped from outside and visible:

So, with the screw turned to 0, the pedal looks like this fully pressed (and at value 127) in sitting mode:

No need to go beyond horizontal for 127. When it’s fully pressed like this, turning the screw up to 10° moves the pedal up turn by turn.

When in standing mode, the pedal looks like this fully pressed / 127:

The screw can then be used to push it up towards horizontal so you have some spring-loaded boost, but I keep the screw at 0° - no need to push for the pedal to stay at 127.

In my experience, shifting correctly from standing to sitting mode requires completely removing the hook screw and the clamp and re-seating the pedal correctly. Simply loosening the hook screw as the manual says doesn’t work for me.

Hope this helps!

Cheers,

Torsten


#8

BTW: as you see, I’ve cut the original cable and put an XLR connector close to the pedal. This way, I can simply configure different cables to connect this to my keyboards in the correct polarity without having to fiddle with Y-cables or funky adaptors that lose contact at critical points in the performance (been there…).

Cheers,

Torsten


#9

Hi Torsten,

Thanks for the detail and photos. I got mine working like yours!

Thanks

EDIT - I like this pedal way more than my m-audio EX-P for Hammond and wah-wah


#10

I predict this thread will become the go to url for people who need to figure out the FC7 :grinning: