@cdv_gabriel Thanks for that. It’s much appreciated. It looks like these pedals are rare as hen’s teeth! Why Elka chose this route over the simple standard that everyone else used?.. Lost in the mists of time, I guess.
I imagine some clever engineer could create an emulator for the optical pedal, and if one of them reads this thread… you know where I am!
And if anyone else has a VP10 hiding in a cupboard… you know where I am!
@The_Elf It should not be so difficult. From the schematics I have, it seems that the RING voltage goes (through a 1kOhm resistor) directly to the input of a ADC0809 (an A/D converter with an input resistence of 2kOhms). So a simple linear potentiometer, used as a voltage divider between ground and the 4V tip voltage should do the trick (the variable voltage pin should be connected to the ring).
As I said before, I have also a Roland D50 which I use as a master. I have two Roland EV-5 pedals connected to the D50, so I took one and tried it on the MK88…if I set the “Minimum Volume” knob to zero I am even able to see some changing values in the midi monitor (otherwise it always produces the maximum value). Unfortunately, even with the knob at zero, it reaches the maximum value quite soon…so you can’t exploit the full range of the pedal.
I had a look at the EV-5 schematics: it seems that the tip is connected to the variable voltage contact of the potentiometer and the ring to the highest voltage contact…for the ELKA MK88 it should be the other way around. So maybe inverting the ring and the tip in a EV-5 pedal could do the trick. If you can get one and you are good at soldering you could give it a try.
Anyway, maybe we should move the discussion to private messages…
UPDATE: I was curious, so I did it myself. Inverting the ring with the tip in the EV-5…it seems to work! (with the minimum volume knob on zero).
Unfortunately, lamp + photoresistor has been used extensively in lots of italian products. Photoresistors are well known for their drifting values during years. The lamps are even worse. This may explain why you don’t get midi 0 with pedal released. Just replace the photoresistor with a potentiometer, using one or two trimmers (if needed), to obtain the correct range of voltage/MIDI.
At least, this is in my experiences
Komplete Kontrol mk2
Perfect for me.
I use Studiologic controllers, a Numa Compact 2X on top and either an SL 88 or 73 Studio on bottom. That gives me a weighted keyed for piano/EP and a semi-weighted for B3 and synths. All for about $1,200.
I’m using two at the moment…a Hammond XK1c on top and a Roland RD2000 on the bottom. Like bpeterson1123 I get the benefit of a weighted keyboard for my pianos and a great controller for B-3X and synths. I get the added benefit of having both keys as immediate backup.
Akai MPK88, Roli Seaboard block, Akai EWI 5000s and Korg Kronos
I find that my Montage 7 has the perfect keybed for me. I own two synth action controllers (no hammer action), but they are too soft.
I am not yet sure but I will test a reasonably cheap controller like Studio Logic SL73.
I started as a kid with organs so I don’t feel comfortable with hammer keys. But getting older I feel I need more dynamic.
I am disappointed by key action of midi controllers. Will test a Native soon
Komplete Kontrol Mk I here, with VPC-1 on the bottom.
Launch Control XL for extra buttons and things.
Mostly a piano player, but love bright flashy things…
Hey, I see this is an old thread but I need to build some CantabileCred so I would offer my answer. Live I use a Roland Juno-Di mostly as a controller but also use some pre-set and self made patches. My main “Piano” controller is the Novation Impulse 61. It has half-weighted keys, sliders (one of which is always master volume) and pads for triggering samples.
I have the mk2 but no experience with the mk1. I use it for solo instruments or b3 only. Its very flexible. The keys are responsive, aftertouch is good, sliders in the wrong place though. It is paired with a SL88 grand which i love.
My Oxygen 88 finally became unusable except at home so I got a SL88 MKII from StudioLogic. I’m not sure if anyone else has tried the MKII but I can say from my introductory use it has a good key bed with no wild notes and an acceptable weighting system for piano feel. Not a lot of controls but I don’t need them the way I have things set up. From what I’ve read it is a big improvement on the MKI regarding the key bed. Also it offers a 3 pedal unit that matches with my RD2000 setup well since I use the same 3 pedals for a host of things. I will look at the Mixface that TorstenH uses, it looks interesting. Anyway, I am happy with this newbie … 
To quote Freddie Mercury “I’m just a poor boy, from a poor family” (!) I use my Yamaha MX61 synth purely as a controller, and use its built-in audio interface for sound outs. I haven’t found out how to control their volumes separate to the vst sounds in Cantabile, but it is no big deal because it’s on-board sounds are somewhat dated.
I could do with a second keyboard on occasion, but lack of pennies have held that one back. However the MX61 is over 7 years old, and the keys have become rather clacky, so I may well need to look for a replacement. Because of RSI problems, it will have to be a synth keyboard action, which rules out any 88-key units, as they are all weighted, which kill my arms after only 15 minutes playing. I would also need to invest in a 2 channel audio interface.
My background is organ rather than piano. The (discontinued) DMC-122 (2nd version) looked like, for me, the perfect controller. Well, a little heavier than I would like. An organ-like controller with aftertouch on both keyboards, pitch bend, mod wheel and some extra knobs and buttons. Checks all my boxes. I bought two. One for home and one for rehearsal.
Lower row of buttons are “hard-wired” to B-3X for chorus and percussion. Upper row, so far, for quick song-state changes. Lots of spares.
Turns out it is not quite perfect. Wheels are in an awkward position and the spring on the pitch wheel is way to hard to move. I now use a joystick controller velcroed to the lower left side. It is closer to the Roland-style lever that I had gotten used to over many years of Roland hardware. The knobs are almost useless. Enthusiastic playing causes them to spontaneously jump a count or two. And can cause extreme jumps in a plugin depending on the relative positions. I have them set to jump prevention in Cantabile, but I’m not a fan. Even the drawbars will occasionally jump. I wish I had the software so I could add a little guard band around the knobs.
But even with those issues, I will be crushed if these things die before I do.
I use a Roland A-800-Pro as a second controller (61 keys plus knobs and sliders), and l use. Juno-DS 88 for my main controller, which gives me a chance of using its internal sounds as a backup. I use mostly Zenology and Triton as my VSTi synths, a few other oddities (Surge XT, Addictive Piano Upright, Colla B3 Pro, OX-D). I have a few others that l don’t use, often. In Cantabile, l still have the song choices for the DS 88 in my Bindings, so l can mostly function in a failure of any kind.