@cdv_gabriel Thanks for that. It’s much appreciated. It looks like these pedals are rare as hen’s teeth! Why Elka chose this route over the simple standard that everyone else used?.. Lost in the mists of time, I guess.
I imagine some clever engineer could create an emulator for the optical pedal, and if one of them reads this thread… you know where I am!
And if anyone else has a VP10 hiding in a cupboard… you know where I am!
@The_Elf It should not be so difficult. From the schematics I have, it seems that the RING voltage goes (through a 1kOhm resistor) directly to the input of a ADC0809 (an A/D converter with an input resistence of 2kOhms). So a simple linear potentiometer, used as a voltage divider between ground and the 4V tip voltage should do the trick (the variable voltage pin should be connected to the ring).
As I said before, I have also a Roland D50 which I use as a master. I have two Roland EV-5 pedals connected to the D50, so I took one and tried it on the MK88…if I set the “Minimum Volume” knob to zero I am even able to see some changing values in the midi monitor (otherwise it always produces the maximum value). Unfortunately, even with the knob at zero, it reaches the maximum value quite soon…so you can’t exploit the full range of the pedal.
I had a look at the EV-5 schematics: it seems that the tip is connected to the variable voltage contact of the potentiometer and the ring to the highest voltage contact…for the ELKA MK88 it should be the other way around. So maybe inverting the ring and the tip in a EV-5 pedal could do the trick. If you can get one and you are good at soldering you could give it a try.
Anyway, maybe we should move the discussion to private messages…
UPDATE: I was curious, so I did it myself. Inverting the ring with the tip in the EV-5…it seems to work! (with the minimum volume knob on zero).
Unfortunately, lamp + photoresistor has been used extensively in lots of italian products. Photoresistors are well known for their drifting values during years. The lamps are even worse. This may explain why you don’t get midi 0 with pedal released. Just replace the photoresistor with a potentiometer, using one or two trimmers (if needed), to obtain the correct range of voltage/MIDI.
At least, this is in my experiences
Komplete Kontrol mk2
Perfect for me.
I use Studiologic controllers, a Numa Compact 2X on top and either an SL 88 or 73 Studio on bottom. That gives me a weighted keyed for piano/EP and a semi-weighted for B3 and synths. All for about $1,200.
I’m using two at the moment…a Hammond XK1c on top and a Roland RD2000 on the bottom. Like bpeterson1123 I get the benefit of a weighted keyboard for my pianos and a great controller for B-3X and synths. I get the added benefit of having both keys as immediate backup.
Akai MPK88, Roli Seaboard block, Akai EWI 5000s and Korg Kronos
I find that my Montage 7 has the perfect keybed for me. I own two synth action controllers (no hammer action), but they are too soft.
I am not yet sure but I will test a reasonably cheap controller like Studio Logic SL73.
I started as a kid with organs so I don’t feel comfortable with hammer keys. But getting older I feel I need more dynamic.
I am disappointed by key action of midi controllers. Will test a Native soon
Komplete Kontrol Mk I here, with VPC-1 on the bottom.
Launch Control XL for extra buttons and things.
Mostly a piano player, but love bright flashy things…