USB-C hubs and reconfiguring my rig

While there is a lull in gigs for a month or two, I’m looking to update and streamline my rig.

With most new Windows PC’s, ther ear efewer and fewer onboard USB ports, so I’m going to have to start using a hub.

Unfortunately latency and other issues may crop up with some hubs, so I’m trying to figure out the best way to move foward. In at least one case I have an interface that doesn’t operate when connected to the HUB (it can only be connected directly to the computer).

Here’s what I’m thinking:

  1. Powered USB hub
  2. Connect via USB-C for bandwidth (I know there are issues with the USB-C connectors being flimsy, but I think I can make it work).
  3. A detachable cable for the connection to the computer. I don’t think there’s a max length on this, but I’m hoping to get a 10 foot cord to go to the computer.
  4. Mount the hub on my pedalboard or in a rack, and bundle all the cables together, and then run the USB-C cable directly to the computer.

Anyone have any specific hubs that work well (or don’t so I can avoid them).

I have two different powered hubs by Plugable that both work great. I admit that I have never tried them with an interface though…

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I’ve found Orico hubs to be reliable. I have a trio of 20-ports in the studio and a 12-port for live.

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+1 for Plugable and Orico

I’ve also used this Sabrent because I needed to be able to switch off the USB Port:

And this Atolla has worked for the same rig:

I have the Sabrent shown above mounted on my pedalboard, with a 6-foot USB extension cable to connect to the computer. I have the power supplies for it and everything else mounted under the pedalboard with AC splitters so everything is powered from a single IEC outlet on the pedalboard. The reason i chose the Sabrent for the pedalboard is that the jacks are on the side, so that with the hub mounted on top of the pedalboard, cables plugged into the hub don’t stick up vertically. (Funnily enough, in my home rig i’m using the same Atolla hub that dsteinschneider has.)

– Jimbo

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Thanks everyone. I decided to start with the Orico 7 port hub (detachable cable, 7 ports, and 3.2 support. They’re top mount, but I think I can put it on its’ side so that shouldn’t be too much of an issue.

If I have issues I’ll try some of the other suggestions.

The USB world is getting more and more confusing. USB followed by a letter refers to the connector type, while USB followed by a number refers to the interface speed. AFAIK there are no midi or Audio devices that use the highest speed (USB-3) interface. Mostly USB-2 at this stage. Which is plenty fast enough for midi and audio. Maybe some USB-1 in older devices? I’ve read some report about a Windows update breaking some midi devices. And a theory that it was due to Windows no longer supporting USB-1. Don’t quite me on that.

The USB-C connector supports USB-3 in a small footprint, though there are USB-A and USB-B connectors that also support USB-3. But having a USB-C connector does not necessarily mean that USB-3 is supported. I have a drawer full of USB-A to USB-C cables that only support USB-2. But I digress. I don’t think USB-3 is a concern for our midi and audio connections.

I was concerned about possible USB-C fragility, but I currently have two devices that are USB-C - MOTU M4 and midified FC-300. No problems so far. I use right-angle adapters so the cables go straight up (FC-300) or down (Motu M4) instead of sticking straight out where it might get bumped. The cables seem to lock in with a little bit of a click.

My hub is an American DJ pow-r bar65 which serves as a USB hub and AC power “hub”. It is USB-3 on USB-B, but I don’t bother with that odd-ball cable. A standard USB-A/B from my laptop. 4 ports plus a charging port is enough for me. YMMV

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On my work computer where USB-3 is actually a factor, I use this 7-port hub.

It is all metal and comes with mounting tabs so it can be screwed to the the bottom or sides of a rack, back of your keyboard, etc… If I ever needed more ports in my music setup, this is the way I would go. It does violate my personal rule - “No Wall Warts”. But I have not found a hub that takes AC power directly. Other than that POW-R BAR.

I would never use a hub with switches as I’m sure I would bump the switch and wonder what broke. I’m curious as to what you have that requires switching USB on and off.