I use MPK261 in 1 single preset, you can assign any channel/control per control
3 banks of 16 Pads Toggle/Momentary any note, any channel per pad in same preset
8 knobs any note/any channel/any control per knob in same preset
8 Faders any controller/any channel in the same preset
1 CV Pedal jacks/any channel/any controller same preset
2 sustain like jacks/any channel/any controller same preset
1 5pin din out can assign any control to on any channe
I control Ableton, Play VB3 and other VSTs, switch an outboard hardware effects processor, all from only one of the 30 available presets
I own about 7 or 8 controllers. All are collecting dust after I got the MPK261. Ebay for $400.
I own hardware synths as backup, just in case, but I am almost exclusively VST. Still, the Nord Synths are hard to beat.
This is an interesting read. Different strokes for different folks.
All my money is sunk into the computer and software (i7, 48GB RAM, large SSDs, Komplete-U, Spectrasonics, et al) so my controllers are cheap. Here are the controllers I use:
Yamaha P-35 digital piano for my weighted 88-key controller
Studiologic 61-key “waterfall” controller
Korg nanaKontrol2 velcros to either of the above.
The P-35 cost me $250US in like-new condition and has been a workhorse since I bought it a couple of years ago. I’ve had only one occasion in the last few years where my computer rig went down, but I was able to cover the gig by using the built-in piano sound which isn’t horrible (ok, it is pretty bad but it does at least resemble a piano). It’s light and squeezes into a case for slim 76-key keyboards. The lack of pitch and mod wheels is its downfall. The SL-161 sits above it on most gigs giving me access to a pitch wheel.
In the past, I’ve had trouble with controllers and synths that lost knobs or buttons due to the rigors of gigging so having a “disposable” nanoKontrol for knobs/sliders/buttons has worked out well. Since these are fairly fragile, I have a backup in case one of the controls goes out.
I think that is a perfectly logical way to go these days.
Over Christmas I will be looking to get all of my soft synths onto my laptop and experiment with them in Cantabile, so I will probably be going this way as well. However, I wouldn’t want just a laptop with me on stage just in case it goes down. So I think I would always want a keyboard with sound capability so I can revert to an “emergency mode” that gets me though a gig.
Same here, my Nord is input into the soundcard and i make a mix. But when some problems rise i can go to the Nord. I’ve been in to make trouble situations on stage. Some due to bad software, some due to bad soundcards, some because there was a power engine running behind stage and the behringer soundcard was powered by USB. You live you learn lol.
But lately i was even looking for a cheap Yamaha mx49 as second keyboard. Pity it doesn’t have aftertouch otherwise i wouldn’t hesitate.
I just bought a 3th Graphite in stead
Serious, it’s cheap and practical with all the features.
Thanks for starting this thread and Brad for putting me onto it, I am exactly here, starting with first Controller Keyboard.
Have been looking between M-Audio, Alesis and Novation.
The overwhelming number of models across brands, features and bundled software is, just that, overwhelming, so all the comments here by experienced users is a great resource, cheers everyone.
I have one and have used it for 4 years, I only had to clean the key contacts once after about 2 years and other than that it’s been fine. Very good with C3 because of all the controllers. Great piano action.
Dave, I will be cleaning my M-Audio 88es soon as I get a break. Any advice would be welcome. I’ve seen several videos on it, but not sure which direction to go.
The vids are all pretty good, I have the weighted Oxygen 88 so the disassembly would be a little different but you basically lay it face down on some pillows and remove the perimeter screws and some of the screws across the middle of bottom the keyboard, this will free the lid with controllers. Be careful not to unscrew the keyboard itself, you can leave it anchored to the bottom plate. Now while holding firmly flip it over and remove the lid watching for and disconnecting the keyboard ribbon connectors. Get a small flat-head screwdriver to help release the keys you want remove to access the contact strips below, the strips are usually an octave or so long so you need to remove enough keys to get at what you want to fix. Remove the contact strips and clean the small round carbon contacts on them. Clean the circuit board contacts as well, let dry, check for fibers and re-assemble. The one thing I do that’s different is I use shammy leather instead of cotton q-tip for cleaning, it leaves no fibers. I also use magnetic head cleaner instead of alchohol. (no residue) Some alchohol is residue free however if you want to use that. Hope this helps … hope it goes well!
I use a MOXF8 on the bottom. It has a lot of decent sounds, and it acts as a 4 in 2 out USB audio interface. I plug my electric and acoustic guitars directly into it and use VSTs for audio processing (Guitar Rig 5 Pro, etc.). Less stuff to carry and plug in is always better!
I also use an MPK261 on top. I love all the programmable knobs, buttons and faders.
I’m wondering. Do you find any 61 keyboard with decent keys? I hate “synthesizer keys” (korg ps60, juno di, etc). I really like “semi weighted keys” (for example kurzweil sp4-7), but the problem that is heavy I don’t want to carry more than 8kg keyboard and no more than 110cm (to fit it in the car). There is a good one keybed on a light keyboard?
Kurzweil sp4-7 are almost perfect, but it is 12 kg and my back is a bad one, so lifting the keyboard+stand+wires+notebook+gears is not so good.
